Fisheye paint full#

They work great and tend to be resistant to thinner. I always pick up a few of the non-needle types from the vet when our cat gets a bug. So far 5 coats of 2K poly - cured over the weekend - haven't.Д¬ontributor J, thanks for the tip. I'm also not so sure vinyl sealer will seal out the silicone. I don't believe 2K poly is compatible with vinyl sealer, though I'm willing to concede if I'm wrong. It may be hard to determine in the first coat of sealer if they are gone, as those pesky guys have a way of hiding until the second coat. I would say 1cc/ml per quart would be sufficient. There are 20 quarts to a five gallon pail. Vinyl sealer is a good universal insulator for anything underneath and it dries in about 20 min.ДЄnother way to add the fish eye eliminator is with a syringe.

If this dries evenly, put your topcoats on this base coat. Try to stop spraying as soon as possible, so you don't get the blue haze in the coating from too much silicone.ДЄfter the stain is on the tabletop and you are happy with the color, why not use a good vinyl sealer? A light sand is next and then another coat of vinyl sealer. The fisheye killer must be in every coat you apply. No! I meant that, once the coating flows out without any more fisheyes showing, try to quit then, even with a coating or two less. Are you suggesting that once I get a good coat lay down that I not need to add any fish-eye killer to subsequent coats? That means probably 4-8 coats total of the 2K poly with heavy sanding in between. I am filling the grain on this oak table surface (which is a good opportunity, anyhow, to sand out the fish eyes that already happened due to insufficient killer). Increase the amount of fisheye flow out into your next coat, and once the fisheyes cease to come out, I would quit while you are ahead of the game. Yes, too much fisheye flow out will cause a cloudy bluish cast in the coating (once that happens, it will not come out). You would think an intelligent company like MLC would put better instructions on their product. Can this stuff be overdosed (is two squirts too much in a quart?). I've had to use more than 3-4 drops so far.

I need the fish eye killer because I got fish eyes, and lots of them.Д¬ontributor M, thanks for the advice. I have literally removed 1/8th inch of wood from the surface of wooden tables and the product still fisheyed on me.

Fisheye paint full#

The golden rule for refinishing anything you don't know the history of is to use fish-eye killer because of the proliferation of furniture polishes that are full of silicone. If fisheyes should appear, then double the amount of drops until the fisheyes are flowing out, and are not seen in the coating. If no fisheyes appear, I would stay with the 3-4 drops per quart until you complete the work. I think I would start with 3-4 drops from an eyedropper in the quart cup.

But if you must, I wouldn't add more than one squirt per quart cup. How do you know that you will have a fish eye problem? Why add the stuff if you don't need it? You will be adding silicone into your spray system that may mess up other new work if you do.

So, in my quart-cup HVLP gun, how much fish eye killer should I be putting in the quart of spray? Can this be overdosed? It comes with a small squirt tube like sometimes comes with little iodine or medication bottles. I don't know anyone that refinishes furniture (the main people that use fish-eye killer) that catalyzes five gallons of anything. I am adding fish-eye killer, but the problem is the directions only say 'one ounce per five gallons'. Other than the fish-eye in the 2K poly (Eurobild). I got the thing totally stripped, sanded, and stained to match what they already have in the house. Our shop is refinishing an oak table as a favor for a customer (the favor is actually doing this - they are paying for it, but we almost never refinish stuff because of the very problem I'm having with this one).